Artists and writers have an important role to play and it is vital that they are fully engaged in these (climate) issues

Sermeq Avangnardleq Glacier

The Sermeq Avangnardleq glacier is retreating
Walking near the mouth of Sermeq Avangnardleq Glacier.

Sermeq Avangnardleq ice cave is affected by climate change
Ice cave formed near the mouth of Sermeq Avangnardleq Glacier.
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Successful Landing

Perdlerfiup Kangerdlua is a remote fjord at about 710 North and two glaciers discharge into its Y shaped end. The smaller of the two has retreated about 2 kilometres recently leaving a beach with a shallow foreshore. The larger still maintains a 100 metres high 3km wide calving face to the water, beyond which we can see the land based part of the glacier perhaps 500 metes above the fjord. It’s an amazing sight but always at the back of the mind is the possibility that the glacier may calve any second, sending out a very dangerous tsunami. Such an event left 20 people injured on one of the sister ships of the Grigory Mikheev last year and we maintain a respectful distance staying at right angles to the face as far as possible.
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A Search For The Meaning of Life

Today we went ashore and I directed a performance of my 365s: A Search For The Meaning of Life. It was beautiful and energizing to work with so many members of the expedition on a theatre piece. Laurie A was played the part of the “finder” which gave me a special joy.

Read about Suzan-Lori Park’s previous day.

Exploring Perdlerfiup Sermia

Perdlerfiup Sermia
Glacial winds at Perdlerfiup Sermia.
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Around 3:30 am

As we leave Uummannaq I wake up, get bundled in most of my layers and head up to the top deck alone in the dark morning to have another look at the Northern Lights. We’d seen them earlier from shore but away from the lights of the town they’re more spectacular. Depending on who you ask it’s God’s curtains or wafts of electrical current or spirits playing football. Watching them I feel a great joy, an expansiveness and then, moments later, as we pass an iceberg and the ship’s light blazes on it, like a dutiful hand keeping the danger at arms length, I feel my phantom tail curl under. Deep fear. Afraid of something so much bigger than me.
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Northern lights over Uummannaq harbour

Finally I saw the ribbons in the sky, the northern lights. Slow and suggested, swaying velvet curtains in a drafty cosmos. We all played a gig in a bar tonight, I don’t know what happened but the great boot from outwith crushed my mojo…Floored by quiet endings, the rip of other roars, it’s not good when you reject yourself in a Greenlandic bar faced with the brilliance of Hitchcock, Cocker, Wainwright, Sakamoto, Carlton and Feist. Not my night. My heart is twisted up like kid’s balloon and I imagine looks like a poodle.
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Vampires In The Ice

The deeper we sail into the Arctic, the more incongruous humanity becomes. Snow and ice cover everything solid. Yesterday on the small island of Uummannaq – which means ‘heart-shaped’ in Greenlandic – we visited a children’s home in a 1400-person port. This is the northernmost habitation on this voyage, and the last place we will visit on this trip that has an ATM.
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Arctic beatbox

Shlomo dedicates his beats to the cause at Hotel Uummannaq. Video: Matt Wainwright.

Hotel Uummannaq

Jarvis Cocker, Robyn Hitchcock, Martha Wainwright, KT Tunstall and Ryuichi Sakamoto
Jarvis Cocker, Robyn Hitchcock, Martha Wainwright, KT Tunstall and Ryuichi Sakamoto at Hotel Uummannaq.
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Navigating icebergs

Scientists return from studying how climate change has affected the icebergs in Uummannaq
Navigating icebergs in Uummannaq to return to the Grigory Mikheev.

Jarvis Day 6

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View as well Jarvis Day 3.

Uummannaq images

Uummannaq. Photo: Nathan Gallagher

Fishing boat beside melting glaciers
Five photos taken in and around Uummannaq.
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