See – la echhchlengnongnahra!

Tags: Tracey Rowledge

Ok so we’re at the end of day 4 of the expedition, sorry for not having written sooner. I seem to have been rendered incapable of being able to put into words what I’ve seen, heard, said and thought since beginning this expedition to Disko Bay, I’ve been entirely overwhelmed by it (in a good way!). I’m not sure I’m in a better state to communicate now, but guilt is getting the better of me – so here goes!

First off, I’ve have been having real problems with pronouncing the Greenlandic place names, so with the help of one of the lovely Inuit guides on board and some fellow crew members (Lemn Sissay, Chris Wainwright, Simon Boxall and Quentin Cooper) we’ve come up with frenetic spellings for all the places we’ve been to, will be going to plus one extra and rather appropriate term. I’ve listed them below, so that when you see we are at a place or have been to a place, you stand a chance of being able to say it!

Kangerlussuaq = gan-el-shlus-su-ak
Aasiaat = Arseyart
Qeqertarsuaq = kirkir – dah – su – ak
Iliminaq = as written
Uummannaq = ohh – man – ak

Sila allanngornera (means weather/climate change) = See – la echhchlengnongnahra
Good luck!

I started to make work yesterday, which was and continues to be REALLY exciting. I hatched the idea for it before coming on the expedition and am happy to report that it is working far better than I expected. For those of you who don’t already know of my plans, I’m making drawings with coloured felt tips on paper. These works respond directly to the sea, working with the impact in terms of movement, the waves have on the ship and then using the arctic sea water to impregnate the drawings, causing the images to bleed and fade. I have also rigged up an automatic drawing system to made drawings from the motion of the boat (see photo). This system has created interesting drawings, that for me explore movement, time, place and permanence. So aside from the drawings, I’m trying to grapple, engage and digest the landscape we are in, which is immensely beautiful and awesome! I want to make sense of what I’m looking at, to understand in what way the climate has physically changed it. The process of learning and the time it will take for me to understand the enormity of the current state of climate change worries me, I hope my creative response to it won’t be too late!!

I should really go now, as it is long past my bedtime and I am pooped beyond the point of being pooped!


  1. Len Roweldge

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 15:48 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey

    So glad to read that all is well and you are enjoying the experience more than you thought. Love the picture of the cabin and the pen tied to the chair!!!!! Good to know your ideas that you had before the trip are all coming together so well. Look forward to reading more on your travels so keep us posted. It appears you are a better sailor than you thought!!!! maybe the ginger nuts are helping and done the trick.

    Lots of love and keep safe.
    Dad and Annie xxxxx

  2. Sally Roweldge

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 22:00 | Permalink

    Hello Tracey
    Well it was great to hear your news, the way you described the scenery also your prospective collabration sounds very exciting, the first thing I do when I come home from a hard day on the switchboard I get switched onto the net to view your incredable voyage. So pleased the said tablets are enabling you to really enjoy your adventure. Take care my darling loojk forward to more info. Love Mum xxxx

  3. clare twomey

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 23:22 | Permalink

    brilliant work tracey! hurrah for the art of the felt tip pen.
    x clare t

  4. David Clarke

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 10:35 | Permalink

    Oh Tracey
    i knew Blue Peter was so educational
    sticky back plastic and a felt tip pen
    i think it’s touched us all !!
    love the work just sounds fantastic, want to see more
    but you know i’m greedy

    keep on hoovering my girl !!

    60|40’s with you all the way


  5. Jonathan Parsons

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 12:08 | Permalink

    So lovely to see a picture of your face and your work station. I think of you each day as I look out at the sky and check the weather. My favorite place name has to be Arseyart! Have a great time. Loads of love, J xx

  6. Jen Lindsay

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 13:53 | Permalink

    Wow, it all sounds just SO amazing. The new work looks really exciting and I can’t wait to see it, and also to hear all about this fascinating and wonderful adventure. I hope you’re coping with the limited amount of Sesame Snaps, lack of Green and Blacks and do you have enough Blue Tack? Keep going gorgeous girl! Kit xx

    Thanks for your lovely e-mail – SO pleased about your new work and your new Inuit spelling! All is well here, staying up late to watch films and eat chocolate. Your blog v. good – knew it was you as soon as I saw the ‘soaked’ colour drawings on the floor.

    Weekend weather at Lizzi’s was hot and sunny (sorry about that!) and we thought of you eating seal meat as we tucked into our marinated pheasant!!

    Your voyage (in the widest sense of that word) sounds deep and good and fulfilling – wonderful.

    Kit and I have just had lunch together and so, back to work!

    You keep safe too,
    lots of love (and lots)

  7. Alison Vernazza

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 16:42 | Permalink


    So glad you are having a good time – what a fantastic experience….keep wearing the thermals!

    Lots of love

  8. David Clarke

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 09:10 | Permalink

    Dearest Tracey
    I’m becoming somewhat addicted to your journey
    i want to know if you have eaten anything strange,
    other than 15kilo’s of ginger nuts which frankly is very strange, but understandable in your situation !!
    Inuit food could be very good i think……………….
    let me know

    keep the hoover plugged in !!

    and Arthur and Elvis are back today
    oh happy days !!


  9. Leonard Rowledge

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 11:36 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey

    Have to say the addiction is catching, I am logging onto CF regularly to read the updates and enjoying your fascinating adventure too, just wished I was there with you to experience it myself – perhaps my next holiday will be Alaska!!(a place I have always wanted to go). Nice to see it is not all work and you all are enjoying fun evenings. Take care, keep well. Much love Dad xxx

  10. carys

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 15:43 | Permalink

    Tracey – glad it’s going well. the pictures look really really fabulous – how much better to really be there…. What does it SOUND like?

    hope the work continues to go well, carys

  11. David Clarke

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 02:16 | Permalink

    Oh Tracey
    im without computer

    my addiction will be stretched to the limit
    im not online until Monday 10 pm
    how will i last………………

    hope all the hoovering has been good
    remember you may need to change the bag for better suction !!
    all the very best


  12. mums

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 10:02 | Permalink

    Hello, from an extemely wet and windy guildford,seems hard to believethat you are now on your way back to reality.

    I have enjoyed following your voyage, it looks amazing, wonderful scenery, must be so hard to take it all in.

    Looking forward to seeing you, and hearing all about the trip, when you get your land legs back.

    The entertainment looked great fun, i bet you had a boogie! enjoying the very talented musicans.

    Their have been lots of good blogs, loved the ones from David, what a great sence of humour, would really like to meet him.

    I am now enjoying sky+ and have sky in my boudior, OH so very posh EH!

    Have a very safe journey home.

    Lots of love MumsXXXXXXXXXX

  13. Dan Harvey

    Posted Saturday 25 Oct at 13:31 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey, Sure that you hadn’t seen this but felt you should be aware of it, as is very similar to your work, heard you speak at the Dana Centre, but didn’t feel it was the right time to say anything. Sure we’ll meet up through a Capefarewell event in the near future so look forward to it. all Best Dan